Jollof Rice: The Party Staple Everyone Argues About

Few dishes start an argument faster than jollof rice. Ask three Nigerians how to make it and you will get four methods and a firm opinion about Ghana.

The base

Good jollof begins with the stew. Blend ripe tomatoes, red bell peppers (tatashe) and scotch bonnet, then fry the mixture in oil with onions until the water cooks off and the oil rises to the surface. Do not hurry this step. A raw-tasting base cannot be rescued later.

The rice

Use long-grain parboiled rice, washed until the water runs mostly clear. Stir it into the stew with stock, thyme, curry powder and bay leaves, then cover tightly and cook on low heat. Some cooks line the pot with foil so the steam stays in.

The smoky bottom

At parties, jollof is usually cooked over firewood, which gives the famous “party jollof” smoke. At home you can come close by letting the rice catch lightly at the bottom of the pot for the last few minutes, then folding it through.

• Serve with fried plantain (dodo) and coleslaw.
• Add grilled chicken, moi moi or fried fish to make it a full plate.
• Leftovers fry beautifully the next morning with an egg.

The real secret is patience, and a pot that has seen many parties.